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Complete blue acara care guide

Blue Acara

Because of its stunning colors, generally calm disposition, and readiness to breed so rapidly in the home aquarium, blue acara, also known as Cychlasoma pulchrum, Aequidens pulchrum, and its scientific name Andinoacara pulcher, is highly well-known in the fishkeeping hobby.


Order: Percomorphoidei

Suborder: Percoodea

Family: Cichlidea

Genus: Aequidens

Species : Aequidens Pulcher (Gill)

Habitat: Colombia, Venezuela, Panama.

Foreign name : Blue Acara

When compared to other ornamental fish, bluefish is distinctive among those who enjoy aquarium fish. In particular, these fish enjoy making out near the aquarium’s bottom.

Characteristics of Blue Acara Ornamental Fish

The Acara ornamental fish has a tall, flattened-to-the-side oval body form resembling a chicken egg. This fish has an olive-to-yellow-green body color as its standard hue. The body is decorated with lovely colored lines on the left and right sides. Darker dots with a lighter edge, resembling pearl spots, can be seen under the eyes.

A bluish-green or gray belly contrasts with the brown back. Eight thin lines are then visible on the body’s sides, each one split by a line of yellow-gold or green scales.

There is a band of vivid color running around the base of the tail. Additionally, there are little markings on the body and rainbow-green spots on the gill covers.

The fins come in a range of colors. Earthy yellow is the color of the anal and dorsal fins, whereas green-blue is the color of the pelvic and pectoral fins.

Regarding dimensions. Blue Event can reach a height of 20 cm in its natural environment. However, if kept in an aquarium, it can only reach a maximum height of 15 cm.

The bluefish’s native environment frequently includes still, stagnant waters. Since this fish is aggressive, it should not be housed in a tiny tank, especially if it will be kept with other smaller fish.

Bluefish are a fierce fish, but those who enjoy ornamental fish still adore them. In addition to its appealing body shape and color.

Along with being quite simple to breed, this fish has few maintenance needs. This fish is a member of the Cichlidae family, just like its other brothers that like raising their young.

Blue Acara food

Being able to raise bluefish is not difficult. Providing you can meet his requirements for living. Keeping water conditions consistent and always feeding when it’s time are two examples. If the water is filthy, replace it right away with fresh water.

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Try to keep fish in one aquarium that is all the same size. regarding fish since a fish will naturally consume whatever that fits in its mouth.

Although the Blue Event fish is an omnivores, they favor eating meaty, high-protein foods. if natural food is difficult to get by. You can give artificial food, such as pellets, but don’t forget to give natural food as well as vegetables.

The following foods are appropriate for blue event ornamental fish:

Blood worms
White worm
Tubifex worm
Saltwater prawns
Stewed cabbage
Boiled peanuts
Boiled Spinach

Feed ideally twice a day, in the morning and evening. Give sparingly—not too much. since it will quickly cause the aquarium to get unclean.

How to Take Care of Blue Acara Fish in the Aquarium

Blue Acara

It is quite simple to maintain and care for blue acara fish. All that needs to be kept in mind is that the water must constantly be in a clean condition. The aquarium is a closed system, thus upkeep is still necessary no matter how big it is. In a home aquarium, nitrates and phosphates accumulate over time, and evaporation causes the water’s hardness to rise.

Ornamental blue acara fish are extremely sensitive to toxins and changes in pH. Particularly if the tank is loaded with a lot of fish, try to replace about 15-20% of the tank’s water every week.

Make sure to clear the water’s dirt when performing weekly water changes. Tropical fish tank issues are typically brought on by organic debris that has begun to decompose.

Try adding sand to the aquarium’s bottom. This is due to the blue’s propensity for digging in its natural environment. Include green plants in the aquarium as well. Because the plant might serve as a hiding or shelter spot for the fish in times of stress or depression.

Blue Acara Tankmates

Aim to keep neon tetras and cherry shrimp separate from the Blue acara fish. Although this fish is less aggressive than other cichlid fish varieties. However, they continue to defend their region with care.

particularly if it is the spawning stage. Marine fish, angelfish, Convict cichlids, Jak Dempsey, Leopard Pleco, Plecostomus, and other fish can be coupled with the Blue acara

How to Distinguish the Gender of the Blue Acara Fish

In terms of size, the male Blue Acara fish is larger than the female. The color scheme is more diverse. The tips of the fins are also longer. From its nature, the male blue show is usually more aggressive. As for the female bluebird, the female has shorter dorsal and anal fins. The shape of the belly is round or round.

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How to Breed Blue Acara Fish

When the blue fish is 9 to 11 months old, it is ready to reproduce. The shape of the female’s abdomen, which tends to become rounder when it is ripe, can also be used to determine the maturity of the other fish in addition to the age factor. Males will exhibit a more aggressive attitude if they are sexually mature.

Immediately separate prepared broodstock and place them in a different location while providing ample food, such as badis-badis fish. Give no silkworms. because it can make it challenging for the eggs to hatch. A dedicated tank with the optimal dimensions of 30 x 25 x 25 cm or 40 x 20 x 20 cm can be used to spawn this species.

containing about 100 L of water for the spawning process. This blue program has the propensity to spawn near the bottom of the tank, between cavities that are purposefully formed, such as cement pots and other similar objects, just like the badis-badis decorative fish. As a result, the aquarium’s bottom must have flower pots for the spawning grounds.

Not only that, but it is best if coraltek is placed on the aquarium’s bottom to make the fish more comfortable for the parent couple. This is because these fish have a tendency of digging holes and cleaning the areas where they lay their eggs prior to footing. Try using pure water that is between 25 and 26 degrees Celsius in optimum conditions and has a pH level of 6.8 to 7.2 (neutral).

Change the aquarium water frequently to hasten the spawning process. and maintain the water’s temperature at 2 to 3 degrees Celsius at all times. while the process of spawning. Broodstock’s aggressiveness in defending its territory will increase.

Up to 400–1000, eggs can be produced by a female broodstock. Brooders occasionally devour their own eggs. You must therefore secure the egg.

Eggs of ornamental fish will hatch when they are 3–7 days old. The temperature of the water affects how quickly eggs hatch. The broodstock will move the baby fish to the sand hole it has created with its mouth when it hatches.

after being placed in the sand pit for 3–4 days. The young fish will seem to be swimming and consuming food. Feed nematodes, brine shrimp, or rotifers for the baby blue show.

Nooru Ariyoushi

Nooru Ariyoushi

Nooruariyoushi has been a fish hobbyist for 20 years and is now a blog writer sharing information about fish and how to care for them.

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